Europe’s TPO ban has nail salon regulars in a chokehold: We asked an expert to break down the pros, cons and in-betweens

Who doesn’t love a good fresh set of nails — au naturel, gel overlays or acrylic — having professionally manicured tips is definitely up there on the list of instant dopamine hits.

We asked an expert to walk us through the TPO fiasco: All you need to know as a nail enthusiast

But if you’re somebody who plans your social calendar around the set of nails they get done as soon as the month turns, chances are you’ve heard, panicked and googled all that you could come up with, in regards to Europe’s TPO ban. For those not as obsessed, TPO refers to trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, a core chemical in gel nail paints which is what makes their colour pay off and gloss weather weeks of wear and tear, not to mention the instant hardening under UV light.

The reason behind the ban is pretty straightforward. The chemical has been categorically marked ‘toxic’ for humans. Now while that isn’t untrue, we asked an expert to holistically weigh in on what all the hullabaloo really means — for your nails, your health and your monthly aesthetic update.

Firstly, what’s the connect between nails and fertility?

One of the core reasons marking TPO as toxic to humans are claims of it impacting fertility. So have your regular visits to the nail salon impacted your fertility in any way? Dr. Smita Vats, Additional Director & Unit Head, OBGYN at Fortis Hospital, Manesar Gurugram halves the tension in the air. She says, “TPO is used in some gel nail polishes to help them harden under UV light. European authorities have banned TPO in cosmetics due to animal studies suggesting a potential risk to fertility, but these studies used much higher doses than what would be experienced during typical nail applications”. She doubled down adding, “Scientific consensus at present indicates that normal use results in minimal exposure, and no direct link between gel polish with TPO and impaired human fertility has been established”.

So is an occasional visit to the nail salon not as morbid as its being made out to be?

Short answer: Not at all. “Occasional gel manicures with TPO-containing polish are generally considered safe for most healthy adults, as the quantity absorbed through the nail is very low and there is no current evidence of adverse effects from such use. Choosing TPO-free gel polishes is also an option for added reassurance, as many brands have begun offering alternatives to align with new regulations”, says Dr. Vats.

But what if I like to get my nails done every month?

Never letting your nails breath, TPO or no TPO, isn’t a great idea as it is. Dr. Vats outlines, “Breaks are advisable mainly to maintain overall nail health, as frequent gel manicures can sometimes lead to nail brittleness or irritation. There is no official guideline for breaks specifically to protect fertility, but alternating gel polish with traditional nail paint or taking occasional weeks off may offer peace of mind”.

But what about pre-existing medical conditions and medications?

As it goes with every indulgence, this too has a fine print that needs to be considered. Dr. Vats clears, “Anyone with sensitive skin, allergies, or a history of reactions to cosmetics should avoid TPO-containing gel polishes, as they might cause irritation. Pregnant individuals or those undergoing fertility treatment may choose TPO-free alternatives as a precaution, following European recommendations”.

Our suggestion? Just ask your nail tech to specify the brands being used on your nails, read the label, make an informed decision and breathe easy.